The Most Epic Japan Trip Of All Time....Part 1
Well, it's over. We survived. 3000 kms by train, 14 days, 2 Japanese islands, 1 sassy and sexy 20 something, 2 middle aged mostly adventurous parents with too much luggage....It really was an awesome time especially since I am so relaxed over here, it has taken 6 months but I finally feel normal and relaxed and no longer feel my stomach eating itself most days.
Day 1- 5..Kansai..Hiroshima
We spent 4 truly jam-packed days in my region of Japan, Kansai, which stretches south past Hiroshima, north to Kanto, east to the ocean, and west to who knows where. So insane to have Mum and Dad arrive, so surreal! They loved my people and everyone loved them! Salmon and vodka for a welcome to Japan party with my roommates and close friends..Osaka Castle in all it's cherry blossom glory and blue skies...the madness of my daily shopping experience, which of course feels completely normal ever since the first day, and now it seems impossible to live without the daily hubbub and energy from my crowded city.
Scenes from my Osaka....
I finally started to do Kyoto properly, so overwhelming since so many of the most famous places are spread out. It was empowering to overcome my fear of taking buses! We went to kinkakuji
The entire pavilion except the basement floor is covered with pure gold leaf. The pavilion functions as a shariden, housing relics of the Buddha. In 1950, the temple was burned down by a mentally disturbed monk

After pondering the beauty and tranquility of this area, and it's gardeners who have stepped right out of a movie set, it was off to my favourite place, Arashiyama. The setting for the unbelievably fun day last fall in our rowboat.


Next it was off to Hiroshima. Every ride on the Shinkansen (bullet train) is basically minimum 100 bucks each way, thus the hour ride to Hiroshima is still a luxury. I wasn't sure what to expect from this famous city and tragic history, we had no plan. But I was overwhelmed by the joyus atmosphere, compounded by the blue skies, blossoms, and old people and children enjoying hanami (cherry blossom picnics). The museum and memorials were moving but it was hard to feel really connected to the tragedy, I likened it to how my kids would feel if we visited a 9/11 memorial in the distant future. The most moving is the individual stories, especially of the now famous story about the girl who wanted to make 1000 paper cranes believing she would be cured. Her parents seem to have donated everything from her life which was a little odd, but definately tear inducing when you see the cranes she folded using a needle since they are so tiny.

In a suprising twist, we headed out to the incredibly beautiful island of Miajima, with the 3rd most photographed site in all of Japan, the floating gate that is built into the sand. It is a spectacularly gorgeous spot and I plan to return in a few weeks!

PS clearly I am going to hell for accidentally yelling F*** MY GUCCI SUNGLASSES!when they slipped off in the memorial park...
Kurama, Kurama

One recent sunny clear day with skies bluer than one could ever imagine, my intrepid Italian and I set off for the ultimate in Japanese relaxation....the outdoor onsen aka boiling thermal bathing with mandatory nudity...

But first there was death mountain to be conquered...

And much beauty to savour...
Many shrines to stop and take a moment of silent prayer and offer a 5 yen coin, plus several pretty temples in the midst of forest and smoky smelling fragrant air.
We made friends with the insane elderly caretaker who managed to run over the mountains several times with hundreds of keys jangling in the time it took us to climb over it once! Every shrine had lit candles despite the breeze, a testament to ancestors and babies who have died, always sombering to see the aprons tied around the idols necks bib-style to show another baby death. 

We decended our mountain and found an enchanted herbal tea house with the traditional heated table under which to warm our poor cold and exhausted bones. Rose petal tea, bean cakes and a lovely tea house lady, the most amazing refuge from the icy wind! Finally it was onto the onsen, to soak our naked bodies under the full moon and shelter of the mountains and millions of stars....